Which anti-allergic and soothing peptides have been included in the catalog of ingredients used in already-marketed products?
Publish Time:
2025-10-23
In recent years, peptide raw materials have been widely applied in the cosmetics industry and have become a key ingredient in functional skincare products. Peptides are compounds formed by multiple amino acids linked together via peptide bonds, and their preparation methods include chemical synthesis, extraction, and fermentation. Among these, chemical synthesis is currently the primary approach for peptide production, offering advantages such as reliable manufacturing processes and controllable product quality. As a class of highly popular cosmetic ingredients, peptide-based components exhibit excellent safety profiles and well-defined efficacy. Moreover, the structural building blocks of peptides, along with their human-derived degradation products, are predominantly natural amino acids, ensuring that they pose no potential toxicity to the human body. Additionally, peptides are less likely to be recognized by the immune system, making them inherently weak immunogens. This characteristic prevents any direct skin irritation, which is essential for their anti-allergic and soothing effects. Most anti-allergic and soothing peptides originate from endogenous substances within the human body, demonstrating high selectivity and strong receptor affinity. Through targeted structural modifications, these peptides can more effectively penetrate the skin's stratum corneum barrier, thereby enhancing their therapeutic benefits.
Which anti-allergic and soothing peptides have already been included in China's list of approved raw materials for marketed products? Tongjun Pharmaceutical, a leading manufacturer of cosmetic peptide ingredients, has compiled the following information for you.
1Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, known by its INCI name Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, is derived from dipeptide-1 through acetylation and cetyl esterification. The amino acid sequence of this peptide consists of arginine and tyrosine.
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is derived from an endogenous opioid analgesic dipeptide, Kyotorphin, which was first discovered in 1979. The mechanism of action of Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester involves promoting the gene expression of pro-opiomelanocortin (POMC), thereby enhancing the synthesis of β-endorphins and reducing the release of CGRP. This ultimately leads to decreased activation of TRPV1 receptors and subsequent inflammatory responses, effectively alleviating the stinging sensations and inflammation caused by factors such as heat exposure or contact with irritant substances on the skin. Moreover, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester significantly upregulates the gene expression of skin barrier-related markers, including Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), Filaggrin (FLG), and Caspase 14. Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) has been implicated in neurogenic inflammation associated with sensitive skin; however, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester markedly reduces PGE2 secretion and downregulates the NFκB signaling pathway. In a clinical study involving 31 volunteers with sensitive skin, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester demonstrated the ability to inhibit capsaicin-induced skin stinging within 15 minutes.
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Ceteryl Ester Structure
2. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, known by its INCI name Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, is a derivative of Tripeptide-8 modified with a palmitoyl group. Its peptide sequence consists of the amino acids arginine, histidine, and phenylalanine. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 is a biomimetic peptide derived from the naturally occurring melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), which is part of the pro-opiomelanocortin (POMC) precursor. It functions by mimicking the anti-inflammatory neuroactive peptide α-MSH, thereby exerting potent anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties without promoting melanin production. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled study involving 28 volunteers with sensitive skin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 effectively alleviated skin irritation induced by capsaicin, demonstrating superior anti-sensitivity and soothing efficacy compared to the positive control.
The control group treated with desensitizing agent strontium chloride showed a 47% improvement. Additionally, formulations containing palmitoyl tripeptide-8 demonstrated significant efficacy in reducing redness and flushing associated with rosacea, making them promising candidate lead molecules for the development of therapies aimed at alleviating rosacea symptoms.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 Structure
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